I have 7 of them. thegillion is correct about the mounting. I can add that the positioning of the "Z" style mounting bracket may limit the camera positioning range. The nut will drive you crazy and it doesn't get tight (but haven't loosened at all) just by hand. Working with the slot in the mounting post does help secure positioning but can be a bit tideous to play with while setting it up. It does integrate well with Iris Security Alarm. There are Rules already setup in the Rules Library for cameras to come on and record for variable durations when the alarm is triggered. They are quite sensitive so I did not have them "participte" with the "Partial" setting of the Iris Security Alarm, used all the time. I found control of the sensitivity lacking in the Iris app and portal (not familiar with control in the "unofficial" portal). I have always used Blue Iris ( http://blueirissoftware.com/ ) to control the cams and remote access viewing of them. I have discovered, by use of the "unofficial" portal's Hub Event Log section, that a tremendous amount of processor time slicing goes to the cameras. I have removed them from the Iris Hub because 7 cams had half a sceen of line entries at any time. The other half of the entries were from some 85 other devices. This of course eliminates use of Iris Rules, but the sensitivity and triggering control is MUCH better with Blue Iris. The triggering of other devices controlled by Iris Rules (cloud processed) also had less latency due to the workoad of the Hub being decreased. The scrolling of the the lines in the Hub Event Log now actually pauses for maybe 5 seconds instead of constantly scrolling, almost smoothly. Now I can use the "ON" setting for the security alarm to include 'participating' Iris Motion Sensors in both "Partial" and "ON" (their out of the box default) . The cams are Wi-Fi devices and they have no trouble with IP address complications with multiple 'networks' resulting from use of Wi-Fi extenders after being configured while plugged into an ethernet port on the modem/router first. Some of my cameras have made it through a year and all of them have survived the current quite cold winter here in the Blue Ridge Mountains (single digits both day and night for a week back in January). They all held up well including with snow on them. In a nutshell, they are worth the bucks and deserve consideration for indoor or outdoor surveillance. Just a quick note... four GE Z-wave devices in unheated buildings also held up very well during that cold snap, despite their 32 degree minimum temperature environment rating.
Blue Iris console on my laptop, cameras are in Infrared night vision mode. I will capture and post the same camera views in day light mode in an hour or so. The column to the right are clips recorded when cameras are triggered. Many of these clips are due to flying insects, the wind moving many nearby tree branches, falling rain or cob and/or spider webs movement caused by any/all. While some of the smaller 'hot spots' of light are from patio lites, the brighter ones are the Infrared of other cams seen by each picture's camera.
Each camera window can be clicked to provide a larger image which can be zoomed in respective to cursor position.
I would highly recommend Blue Iris as well. I use it with a mix of different camera brands which includes 8 Iris cameras. The biggest problem I have with the Iris cameras is the video quality. They only record in 720p and the night vision distance leaves a lot to be desired. If you look at the last image in Scott's post he has digitally zoomed in on the vehicle and as you can see you cannot make out the license plate number. You'll find that this also occurs when you zoom in on people's faces. It's nice to be able to see that someone is burglarizing your property, but if you cannot identify the individually what is the use of having a camera system?
The screenshot below is an example of a 1080p PTZ camera that has auto-tracking. With this camera I can not only read license plates of cars in my driveway I can auto-track people on my property which gives me a lot better chance of identifying the intruder.
If you are using a third party app for video surveillance for your Iris cameras I would suggest that you do not remove them from your Iris system. The logging function Scott pointed out has minimal impact on the Iris hub's processing capabilities and the ability to use the camera's motion sensor for other Iris home automation functions far outweighs this impact.
To sum this up I would not recommend using Iris cameras if you are serious about video surveillance.
Scott, even though Blue Iris will run on a laptop it is better to run the application on a dedicated desktop computer. From the screenshots you posted I can see the laptop seems to have minimal resources available. It looks like you only have 31GB of hard drive space dedicated to recording which seems pretty low for 7 cameras. How long does this allow you store videos for? Also, you may be able to eliminate a lot of your false triggers by utilizing the zone crossing feature within Blue Iris.
Blue Iris does not make cameras it is just a software application that supports a varity of cameras from different manufacturers.
Sorry, I forgot I had switched my display around so the newest post are on top since this sight no longer was going to the last read post. So now I see you where already pointed in the direction of Blue Iris. With Blue Iris there isn't any integration with Iris but you have much better camera options and much better control over them. The only issue is there is no cloud storage so when your talking about an indoor camera, someone breaking in may find your NVR (Blue Iris server) before you can copy off the video, there are options for sending pictures every so often to an ftp server or you could write to a location that is synced to the cloud but it wouldn't be realtime.
First, if you want to have recordings that you can review at a later time you will need to pay for either the $10/month or the monitoring plan at $15/month. The cameras are 720p so you'll be able to tell it is your kids who walk by but the night vision on the original two cameras was pretty grainy. I've heard the newer camera has better night vision. Any of the cameras can incorporate into motion detection duties however you may end up with more false alarms than you want if you use them to trigger the alarm but that can be reduced by changing how many motion detectors must detect motion in a 5 minute period for the alarm to activate.
No, just a one time cost for the server software ($60) and a one time cost for the mobile app per OS ($10).