Iris by Lowe’s
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since
07-10-2017
09-24-2018
Paradise488
Frequent Contributor
17
Posts
17
Kudos
1
Solution
08-13-2018
02:42 AM
OK, before everyone tells me that this device is not supported by Iris, I already know that. I knew that when I purchased it. That being said, there was at least one respondent who reported that I could do what I needed with the product, so I purchased one. And yes, I can return it, provided I do that within 30 days of the time I purchased it. With all of that being said, I have a small problem that I am hoping someone else has resolved. I have paired the device (and unpaired it more than once) with my Iris Hub. When you pair it, it comes up as "Z-Wave Generic Switch 1". As its name (subject line above) implies, it has several functional inputs and outputs. Functioning as a generic switch is not a feature that I need. The particular feature I need is the ability to sense when a dry contact is open or closed. This is one of the functions of the device. I called the Fortrez support staff and they are useless ("it can't be done with an Iris hub"). I know there are people out here that are smarter than that. It would appear that no one has thought to share how they did it. Using the Iris Web portal, I have noted that while most of the z-wave devices us a driver version 1, 1.2, 2.3, this little box uses driver version 2.11. I suspect the problem is that while Iris has (or someone has) provided the 2.11 driver, no one has written (or shared) the necessary interface with THIS driver to provide more than BASIC services, like observing the status of the contact rather than turning on or off a light. Any thought or suggestions? ANY HELP would be appreciated
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06-26-2018
11:28 AM
What exactly does "Logged" mean? ------We know we have a problem and we are going to try and catch up with the parade of once satisfied Iris users who are streaming to other platforms?
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06-26-2018
11:20 AM
No.....I never got one.
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12-15-2017
01:54 AM
I realized today that I did not have functionality that I had with V1.....the ability to create a rule that run from a start date to an end date like December 1 to Christmas for seasonal lighting controls. Does anyone have an idea about how to do this with the current equipment/software? I know I had it in place two years ago, Todd
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12-15-2017
01:32 AM
I was asked the other day what was the status of this problem....well Iris eventually came back and reported they did not have an on-off product that would work,but they did have a dimmer product that would work without a neutral. They promissed to send one. I am still waiting.
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11-14-2017
07:21 PM
Sarcasm possibly....more likely a refusal to admit the system can fail (which is worse). T
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09-21-2017
12:49 PM
Yes, this was a feature wh had in Gen 1. I would also like to see it come back.
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09-21-2017
12:35 PM
Yes.....I agree with Terk. What is the point in locking a door, if the door is open? We need a way of determining "IF" something is on, or off, or happening, that we do (or do not) do something.
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09-21-2017
12:31 PM
I have a friend who is considering using Iris to control lights (and things) in an out building that can not be reached by wi-fi. We are looking to run ethernet to the building, but that in it self may not solve the problem. We are anticipating having to install a second hum in the out building. How much of a problem will this be???
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09-21-2017
12:26 PM
Yes, I agree.....see my example where I reported that my hub just quit and I had 50+ controllers to reinstall. It would have been so much easier if there had been some way to backup the configuration for use on a new hub.....what is the USB port on the back of the hub for (if not to export the configuration for future importation)?
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09-09-2017
02:51 PM
1 Kudo
I have a home that was built in the '70's. Some (many) of my light switches are "hot leg" only switches, where power, neutral and ground run to the device, but only a hot leg and return are run to the switch itself. In the old days (in the infancy of Z-wave) there was a switch which did not require a "neutral" connection. I have a couple of those switches in my home from "the before time, the time before Iris". They migrated into iris without a problem. They are now getting old and one has died. Knowing that Jasco (GE) built them at one time, I went looking for them at Lowes. I found them at Lowes (on the website: https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Z-Wave-Plus-15-Amp-Single-Pole-3-Way-Wireless-White-Almond-Rocker-Indoor-Light-Switch/1000241629) Please take a look at the specifications page and note that "Requires Neutral" is NOT checked. I have stalked several stores withing 50 miles of my home and found that, for the most part, the store will have the place on the shelf for a "GE Z-Wave Plus 15-Amp Single Pole 3-Way Wireless....Light Switch, Item # 829534, Model #14296", none of the stores that I have visited actually have that item on the shelf, or in the back storage. The store's computers will report that they have "5", but none of the store management can seem to find one in the store. I have been offered other similar products, but ALL of the boxes (which do not have the proper part numbers) are marked "Requires Neutral Wire". When I have been directed to other stores, I have encountered the same problem. So I went on line and ordered the exact part that I wanted (needed) Please refer to order number 339246782 from Sept, 4, 2017. What I received (among the several items I requested), was an item marked "30878 14291". 14291 IS NOT a 14296. First question: If you are not going to stock (or deliver) the 14926 product, why do you continue to put tags on the shelves for it and why do you continue to list it on the website? Second question: Do you have another switch product that will work without a neutral? Note: Three weeks ago I called customer service and reported the problem and asked the same questions noted above. They have still not gotten back to me. Thanks for listening Todd
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09-09-2017
02:07 PM
15 Kudos
Please consider the following problem: I have a Kwikset lock on my front door (a remote controlable dead bolt). I had no (until yesterday) way of remotely determining if the door was open or closed. The only thing I could do was remotely lock the door. Yesterday I added a sensor which will tell me if the door is open or closed. Please consider the problem of my wife (or other permitted person) discovers the front door is unlocked and remotely locks the door. If they don't realize there is a secondary sensor which will tell them if the door is open or closed, they will have thrown the dead bold on a door that is open. If there was a way to activate a seen that looked and said "ok, lets lock the door; First, check to see if the door is open or closed, and "IF" is is closed, go ahead and lock the door; and "IF" the door is open, inform the operator that the door is open and it is pointless to lock the door." Thanks for your consideration.
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07-13-2017
01:25 AM
1 Kudo
And I shoud note that the problem with the blank Lights and Switches Card is resolved with the developers doing something on their side of the website, without any further assistance from me. (Maybe they looked at the pictures I sent in last week?) Thank you very much. Things are back to normal. Todd
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07-13-2017
01:22 AM
I did explore the Iris Web Portal, and while I found the tools usefull, they did not solve the problem. I have not yet made a backup copy of the network (YET).
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07-10-2017
06:33 PM
Last week my hub died while I was trying to reconnect a camera. I called Iris and after getting past the shock and dismay of learning they had no backup, after getting past the list of questions suggesting I had somehow killed my hub, Lowe's sent out a new one OVER NIGHT. Thank you very much. Then with some kind assistance from Josh, Jeremy and Erica, and some 10+hours of labor (me on the end of an Ethernet cable and Iris on the phone) we got most of my 60 devices reconnected. Then we noticed that when I opened the home.irisbylowes.com website, I got a red banner across the top of the screen which went away after 10 seconds. This red banner was again displayed when I went to the Lights and Switches Card on the PC which politely told me that I did not have any devices connected. Curious, it would also tell me that 14/41 devices were "on". How does that work? I then looked at the phone and it showed a blank screen. The Lights and Switched card does not show any devices are connected, but dash board does tell me that 14 are on. In response to a request from the level 2 techs, I sent screen shots of both the dashboard and the lights and switches screens as displayed on the PC. In fact when Lowes had a problem viewing them as pictures imbedded in the first email, I sent them a second time as pictures in an attached PDF file. Today I am told that the level 3 people don’t understand what the problem, and they couldn't clearly state what additional information they required. I asked to speak to a manager and Jenna couldn't find a manager for me to talk to. I know I keep talking about going back to the Smart Home software I had previously installed. I don't know why I keep talking about it and not just doing it. Perhaps it is because when Iris stuff works, it works nicely. But getting timely support just isn't possible, it seems. I don’t understand what part of the problem the developer doesn't understand. Is it normal for the lights and switches card to fail to report a list of lights and switches when asked to display one? What exactly does the developer expect the card to show? Maybe they can explain why the card doesn't show what it should display (or even what it showed just last week) In my opinion, it is a pretty poor developer who blames his software failures on his customer.
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07-10-2017
02:35 AM
I purchased and tried. It was exactl what I wanted, but couldn'tmake it work. I ended up returning the device. I hope it is ultimately incorporated in the accepted devices.
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